George W. Trippon

Sewing tutorials on YouTube are a dime a dozen. A few are very high quality, many are sadly lacking. Most fall into the beginner sewing category or they try to tackle too much in one video.

I wish more of George Trippon could be found in Vogue's vault. The film is dated in fashion and fabric, but the information is timeless and George is very entertaining.

The Cost of Your Clothes

Now that you have cleaned out your wardrobe, it's time again to look at your wardrobe with respect to cost. The total cost of your clothing can be quite surprising for many people. It really doesn't matter what income bracket you are in, most people who haven't thought carefully and constructively about their clothes are in for a surprise when it comes to cost.

For this exercise, you will need a piece of scrap paper along with a pen or pencil. Go into your closet and look at each item. Estimate in round figures what you spent for each item. For example, think $50 for these jeans, $10 for this tee shirt, those are $100 shoes, go slowly and carefully adding up items. For each $100 dollar, make a tick mark on your paper. Don't forget the underwear, the swimsuits, the off-season clothes, the coats in the front hall closet, make a guess at what each item costs. When you have finished, add up the tick marks. Surprising, yes? It doesn't matter if you have a $3000, $30,000 or $300,000 wardrobe, if you are unaware of the cost of your clothing in relationship to your economic means the total can be a rough shock.

Many people make arbitrary rules about their clothing. I will only buy designer clothes. I will wear nothing that I haven't made. I only buy from thrift stores. I never buy anything at full price. I always shop at Neiman-Marcus. I feel these rules are rigid excuses not to take conscious control over our clothing choices.  We are letting some one else decide what we a going to wear. The designer has his vision, the major department store's buyer has narrowed your choices. The thrift store find has been filtered through someone's closet and then through the store's manager. Even by choosing to wear only clothes that you have made, limits you to the patterns and fabric available in your area. Think about any "rules" you have about your clothing. Are they limiting you?

Finally, before you close your closet door, let's consider how you can get the most from your clothing dollar. It will not matter if you learn to sew or not. These thought exercises will serve anyone who must shop for clothing.

Cost vs. Wearing
Consider your cost per item versus the number of times that you wear the item. Your $75 dollar jeans are a bargain if you wear them twice a week. That's 72 cents a wearing if you only keep them one year. Jeans should last 2-5 years and that makes it 36 to 14 cents per wearing. The $75 holiday dress that you only wear once to the office Christmas party, doesn't seam like such a bargain any longer, even if it was marked down from $125.

Now, obviously, there are no hard and fast rules for this. Each person much balance their cost and lifestyle circumstances for themselves. Look over your closet, are there items you definitely should have spent less on? Note them down in a small book that you can slip into your purse. Conversely, are there items you spend more on? Note these also. Assign a range for the cost you are willing to pay. For example, I will pay $25-$75 for brand new jeans. But if they are at a consignment shop, my top price is $10-$12.

Cost vs. Quality
Consider your cost per item versus quality. Your basic white tee from a discount retailer will have a certain quality to the finish. I'll bet it isn't cut on the grain and after several washings the side seams have twisted and the length has shrunk. On the other hand, a good quality tee shirt will wash and wear hundreds of times and not look like you've slept in it. Does it still make sense to buy the $5 bargain or the more up market shirt?
Can you recognize the marks of quality for an item? Make some notes in your small book about what makes sense for you.

Cost vs. Longevity or Fad
Consider your cost per item versus it's fashion longevity. Ask yourself should I spend more on a classic navy blazer or a leopard print knit dress? A leather jacket or leather pants? Make a list of must have classic pieces for your wardrobe and lifestyle. This should be where you spend your most amount of thought when selecting these pieces. The classic pieces in my wardrobe are the little black dress, a tan trench coat, a white shirt, and fitted tee, a pencil skirt in tweed, jeans, a cotton shirt dress and a blazer. These items are always in my closet and these are the core items that I will spend a little more money on than other things.


Now that you've considered each of these three areas, you may wish to balance all three in terms of your closet. How? Let's consider the basic tan trench coat. It definitely has fashion longevity therefore you might wish to spend more on a higher quality item, but let's then consider the number of times you will wear it.

So you live in the desert....  Living in a dry arid climate would make my choice for this item to be only moderately priced or even, if I'm lucky, a consignment shop find. I would consider it only to be worn a half dozen times a year and it would feel unwise to spend huge amounts of money on a raincoat. I would, on the other hand, choose an inexpensive coat with very classic tailoring because I know it would be with me for many years.

So you live in London....Where else in the world is known for more rain, fog and changeable weather than London? I would also choose a classically tailored trench and  I would choose the very best raincoat I could afford, knowing I would wear it nearly every week of the year. This is a climate where in addition to my core tan trench coat, I would be open to a second coat of lesser quality and perhaps more fashion forward. This could be another color or a different cut. I would replace this coat more often than my classic trench.

Make some shopping notes about what you need in your wardrobe and what you want to spend for it. Note also the qualities that will be important to you for each piece. Do this exercise when you don't have any sort of "shopping bug" working against your decisions. You want to create a game plan for yourself to make the most of your clothing dollar no matter if you learn to sew or not.

Stash Busting Project Number 1 - Grey Print Blouse

 My wardrobe needs a few more casual blouses. Shirts and blouses that can be worn with pants or skirts without needing a jacket are indispensable to my lifestyle. I mix and match these items endlessly dressing up and down as the situations change.

Here's a stash piece that is going to become a long sleeved blouse. This is an impulse buy from a remnants bin. I fell in love with the print and knew that this store has high quality fabric mixed in with lots of lower priced yard goods. The fabric felt nice, tightly woven and very crisp. But was it really good quality? I needed to be sure as I have been disappointed many times by the lack of transparent labeling of yard goods in Europe. Luckily, I was able to find the manufacturer's name on other items in the store and by the look and feel of those items, I was willing to guess that this piece was good quality but was from last season. The price was certainly within my budget and if it didn't wash well, I could always make a couple of grocery sacks out of the fabric. I bought it and stashed it.

I made McCall's 2094, View A from this piece. McCall's 2094 is currently out of print on the McCall's website. I think I bought this pattern around 2009-2010.  I love this pattern. It's a simple blouse with four sleeve options. It has plenty of darting to help with fit and the collar is simple and well done. From cutting to finishing, the blouse took just a couple of days to sew. I've made versions of this pattern at least five times and I'm always pleased with the results.

Garment Finish: This crisp, firm cotton was easy to work with and pressed like a dream. I serged the seam finishes to keep the project moving along quickly.  Grade: A-
Fit: This pattern has always been a favorite. I did a small FBA for this blouse, but I probably should admit my weaknesses harder and do a bit more adjustment in this area. Grade B+
Material Choice: A good quality printed cotton. It was an easy choice and gave excellent results. A+
Style and Wearability: Classic shirt styling along with simple details make this a wardrobe staple. It's already been through the laundry bin twice this month. I wore it with jeans on Saturday and earlier this month it went to lunch with a pencil skirt and sweater. Grade: A+
Overall: A

The photos are another problem. I'm definitely not pleased with these. My excuses are that it's January in Belgium and there is no day light. There really are no excuses. I should invest as much time in the photos as I do with the sewing.  I hope that spring is coming soon.