The last several sewing projects have used two pieces of yard goods bought for two projects, a circle skirt and a shirt dress. By using every last scrap, I also gained three shirts out of the same yardage lengths. Three extra garments gained from the waste of two. This is incredible to me. I checked my purchase receipts and original lengths and pattern requirements and although a little extra was given to allow for straightening the yard goods, there was just that much waste.
All this waste is rather disturbing to me, especially in light of today's economic conditions, few of us have anything to waste any longer. Also, given that one of my research hobbies is reading about the economic hardships of the WWII householder, the very idea of being lead into purchasing enough fabric for three additional items of clothing was shocking.
I did some research on the War Production Board in the US during WWII. This government organization directed US industries from peacetime to wartime production. It had its hands in every part of the US economy from warships and parachutes to scrap metal drives and civilian rationing. They even issued guide lines for the amounts of fabric allowed in various items of clothing. These guide lines were used by manufacturers and clothing became more tailored and slim. Hemlines rose, pleats were forbidden and pockets were limited to one per garment. There were no such restrictions on home sewing and its popularity rose.
Here are some of the fabric restrictions from the WPB for some of my recent projects.
Daytime Dresses - Women's sizes - Length, 45". Sweep of Hem, 74".
- Misses' sizes - Length 43". Sweep of Hem, 78".
Blouses - Sleeve Width limited to 14" for size 32". Length from neck to hem, 22". Only one patch pocket.
Skirts or Culottes - Women's sizes - Length 28 1/4" to 30". Sweep, 66" to 97"
- Misses' sizes - Length 26 1/4" to 28 1/2" Sweep 60" to 84"
Prohibited: Dolmon, balloon, leg o'mutton and bias cut sleeves. All-round pleated skirts. Wide belts, aprons and tunics.
Straight Coats - Women's - Length, 44". Sweep of Hem, 64".
- Misses' - Length 42". Sweep of Hem, 60".
Fitted Coats - Women's - Length, 45". Sweep of Hem, 64".
- Misses' - Length 43". Sweep of Hem, 70".
It is interesting to note that the length of the day dress could be longer than a straight coat. I guess your dress hem peeked out from your coat. It is also interesting to note that nearly all my sewing projects fail these standards, mostly in length.
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