Monday, January 26, 2015

Confessions - The Stash

I have an incredibly guilty secret, my sewing stash. It has grown to the point of needing an entire room in my house dedicated to its safe storage. Some of the stuff will never be downsized. I cannot see myself getting rid of my machines or my ironing board. But the rest, yeah, I've got problems.

I try to limit my stuff, but temptation gets a hold of me, in particular, my fabric stash. It's out of control.
There it is down there on the left. Three bins stuffed so full that I can't close them. It's even piled on top.

Many ladies would say, "Posh, that's nothing. I have shelves...rooms...a basement...full of fabric." Yes, that's true for many sewers but most of those ladies might be called quilters or crafters. That's a whole different line of fabric hoarding, which I will not touch for now. These are all fabrics bought for clothing. Each bin has at least a two dozen projects.

What makes this a hoard for me is that I'm intensely uncomfortable with its size and embarrassed about the shear number of unfinished projects. During one previous move, I counted as I unpacked, the number was over 90. The stash has grown larger since that time. I hang my head in shame for all the clothes sitting there in those bins and not hanging in my closet.

I started fabric hoarding when I first moved away from my favorite fabric store nearly 20 years ago. At that time, they ran a mail order business and a quarterly newsletter went out. I bought from that newsletter like crazy woman, never finishing all the projects before the next newsletter arrived. I was desperately afraid I'd end up moving somewhere that fabric didn't exist. It turned out that happened several times over. Each time I got to a decent fabric store, I over bought. I couldn't say no in the face of the next fabric drought. So here I am today, trapped in a cycle of bounty and famine. I hoard fabric.

So the New Year has arrived, I have vowed to bust part of this stash this year.  In my idealized mind, it should be less than three projects. I'll celebrate if I have one bin in December, but in reality if I go from three overflowing to two neatly organized bins I will have done well.

The next two projects are stash busters. I've chosen two pieces of cotton out of the bin and I'm hoping for two casual blouses.

Thursday, January 22, 2015

Iron Deficiency


An iron used to be a highly useful household tool.

My mother's iron was indestructible and it was the same model as my grandmother's iron. If it needed a new cord, the hardware store had what you needed. If it needed a new heating element, the small appliance repairman in town could order the part. The iron was stainless steel, inside and out. You could descale it with citric acid and you could clean the sole plate with an old pair of nylon pantyhose and some baking soda. It had steam, but not enough for sewing or cotton shirts. We always used a damp pressing cloth or "sprinkled and rolled the clothes" to augment its steam power, but it was heavy. Oh my, was it heavy and pointy too. That old iron required the arms of a linebacker to finish a basket of clothes and I certainly remember being reminded again and again to "get the point of the iron around the buttons". In fact, my mother's and grandmother's collection of pressing equipment was rather short, a well padded ironing board, a tailor's ham, a water spritzer, a press cloth and a Turkish towel went along with the iron and that was it. My ironing accessories extend far beyond that in a desperate effort to overcome modern iron deficiency.

I have a love hate relationship with my most important piece of sewing equipment. The list of improvements from silicone treated sole plates to "electronically controlled heating" sends me right over the edge. Today's irons have a long list of design flaws.

The lovey rounded nose point might satisfy the health and safety lads, but you can't iron anything that isn't flat and wide. Forget about delicately shaping a hat ribbon or pressing open a narrow seam. Cuff plackets are simply impossible to iron properly any longer. The first criteria for choosing a sewing iron is a sharp point. If you can find one that  is sharp enough to open a tin can, let me know.

The new irons have sleek, silky, silicone soles. Let me tell you a woman who is sleek, silky and silicone is high maintenance. An iron with the same characteristics is not only high maintenance but is limited in function. What is wrong with polished stainless steel? It is good enough for boat fittings on the high seas and it will be good for all of your household needs. I need an iron that can go from panty pressing to applying wax on skis and back again in one day.  A polished stainless steel sole plate is infinitely cleanable and durable. A sole plate that doubles as a mirror is always helpful in a pinch.

When the stainless steel sole plate disappeared, so did much of the iron's weight. An iron needs to have weight to do its job. Today's irons are miracles of plastic, lightweight for sure, but you can't shape coat wool, set jeans hems, or make grilled sandwiches with any of them. If you can find an iron that will got through drywall when thrown, let me know.

Heat, weight, steam and effort combine to shape cloth. If one is lost, something must make up for it. In general, we've lost weight with modern irons and most of them make up the difference with steam power, but only for a bit. The heating/cooling cycle wreaks havoc with the plastic housing and in a few months what I have in my hand is a gurgling, dripping piece of electronic jetsam attached to the 240V line of my house. Iron at your own risk. In the last 10 years, I've bought four irons. Previous to that, I owned two! I'm considering buying a "dry" iron the next time around just for self-preservation.

Finally, the automatic shut-off....where do I begin. I suppose I could blame this on the health and safety lads again, but it's really about our own habits. If you leave the room, the iron is unplugged, off the ironing board, and stored in the cupboard. The cat/child/husband will never knock it off the board and start a fire. The argument about saving electricity should be one for the consumer. All irons have a manual on/off switch, use it if it's important to you.

I have spent the blog post ranting about what it wrong with modern irons not having given any sort of positive guidance about choosing an iron for yourself. An iron is a personal tool for each sewer. The kind of iron you need will be shaped by what you ultimately love to sew. Someone who tailors wool might value steam and weight. A quilter might value heat and a pointed sole plate.

For your first serious sewing tool, your iron should have a clean, unscorched, and unscratched sole plate. It should have a wide range of heat settings and a reasonable ability to produce some steam. I prefer to use the heaviest iron I can get my hands on and I consider the weekly ironing as part of my household workout. Features such as automatic shut-off and cord length are up to you.

The ironing board is as important as the iron itself. Choose one that is adjustable in height and has a sturdy wide surface. A well padded cotton work top is also well worth the investment. Stay away from the shiny metallic ironing board covers. You will end up with scorched fabrics. Pay top dollar for the board and it will last a lifetime.

To do the daily ironing and begin your sewing tool collection, the following items are essential. A cotton or linen press cloth and a spray bottle will augment your iron's steam output. An inexpensive white tea towel will do just fine as a press cloth. A cotton Turkish hand towel can be folded, rolled and shaped for additional padding when ironing your clothes. If you finally decide to try sewing clothing seriously, the next thing to buy is a tailor's ham, but other more specialized pressing equipment can wait until you hone your own sewing interests.

Friday, January 16, 2015

Vogue 7231 - 1952 The Slim Chemise Dress is Finished.

 The dress is finally finished. I'm not sure if I should cry in relief or anguish. It was baptism by fire for pattern drafting and I'm not entirely sure I succeeded. Here's the dress on a hanger. The previous top had problems with the neckline being to small and this final draft of the dress has the neckline to large. Somewhere there is a Goldilock's neckline, but I haven't found it yet.













Garment Finish: I made mistakes and plenty of them.
The choice of fabric is poor. It's a soft lightweight suiting in a glen plaid which doesn't show up in the photos at all. It's there. The suiting shows every stitch. Even after being careful the hem shows. The suiting is as a loose weave. This means the V-neck slash is prone to stretching and raveling. Therefore the neckline stretched as well as the center V. There maybe no amount of careful pressing that will save those hot messes. C-

Fit: The dress looks to be an absolute disaster, especially on the dress form and I would definitely pass the dress by if shopping by hanger. On me? It's okay. Surprising, it's better on me than the dress form, usually it's the other way around. B





Choice of Materials: It's a stash piece of fabric. I have long since forgotten where and when I purchased the piece, but I do know that it was bought during a time of my life when money was very tight. I'm quite sure it's a poly/cotton suiting. I like the color and the plaid, which you simply don't see in the photos.
I think dress would be best in a cotton or cotton/linen blend, something a little crisper and with a tighter weave. B-

Style and Wearablitiy: The dress certainly transfers to today's wardrobe. Modern fabrics and colors would work very well. The dress is comfortable to wear and very forgiving to those with fluctuating waistlines. I'm actually surprised at the fit. Given what it looked like in my sewing room on the dress form I had been very reluctant to finish the garment and declare the whole project to be a wadder. The same fabric tie belt helps create a unified silhouette. A-

Overall: B-
I might just try this one more time.

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

A Word About Laundry


Hopefully, you have completed your wardrobe clean out and are keeping up your idea sewing journal. Today's sewing lesson is a brief discussion about laundry.

"LAUNDRY?! I thought this series is about learning to sew. I KNOWWWW how to do laundry!"

Fair enough, maybe you do know all about laundry. But, if you answer yes to any of these questions, you need to revisit your laundry skills before investing time and money in making garments for yourself.

  • Do you only sort your clothes into three piles; whites, darks, and colors?
  • Have you wanted to wear something only to put it on and find it stained or wrinkled?
  • Do your white shirts and black pants all fade toward grey far too soon?

If you answer yes, then please consider revisiting your laundry guide that came with your machine.

After you know exactly what machine features you have, you need learn to read the laundry symbols on those garment tags. The website Textile Industry Affairs has a no nonsense complete guide to those symbols as well as answers to virtually every kind of laundry problem.

It is one of my personal reference sites for being comprehensive, although it does have a commercial tie with the Clorox bleach company. I tend to use chlorine bleach as a last resort and I prefer pre-treating and soaking before relying on any chlorine bleach. My front loading machine does not recommend using chlorine bleach because of the door gasket and my rural septic system prefers not to have bleach added to it.

Without too much detail, as everyone's laundry is a bit different and I could not, in any way, cover all the possible situations, these are my general laundry guide lines.

Sort by soil first.
Don't put your white athletic socks in the same pile as the white button down shirts.

Sort by color next.
Seriously, your red flannel pajamas should not be washed with your lime green tee-shirt.
Put similar colors together, reds and purples, greens, browns, and blues.

Sort by fabric and care labels.
You are wasting your clothing dollars if you wash  yoga pants with jeans.

All buttons should be open and all zippers should be closed.
Again, you are wasting your time and money, if closed buttons tear your shirts.
Open zippers catch and wear fabrics, especially jean fly zippers.

Use as warm a wash temperature as you can.
Warm water removes soil better than extra soap and bleach. Always cold water rinse.

Dry on lowest setting for the least time possible.
Dryers are tough on clothes. Line dry as often as you can.

If you don't have time to dry, hang and fold the wash as soon as it is done. Don't start it. It's all wasted effort if it molders in the machine. Better to load and soak the wash while you are busy than to wash and forget it.

...And that is all I have to say about laundry. Next up? Your first big sewing purchase!

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Vogue 7231 - 1952 The Slim Chemise Dress - Three more drafts later....


and I don't mean beers, although in retrospect it might have helped. I arrived at this interpretation of the Slim Chemise Dress. There was one glaring error that I didn't see until it was too late.



Here is the toile for the third draft. I thought, "Great! I've got it." Looking back, all I see is the error glaring at me front and center.


I chose some cotton print for this first attempt at a real garment. I decided on these two complementary leaf motif prints and I decided to make a blouse from this pattern rather than a full dress. The brown print will the main body of the shirt, while the green will be the cuffs and interfacings.




  I decided to add a little detail to the sleeves by putting four buttons and loops for each sleeve cuff. I wanted it to appear as if the cuffs buttoned on to the sleeve.

 I wanted it to appear as if the cuffs buttoned on to the sleeve.
The finished garment and its neckline error? The jewel neckline is too narrow and it pulls the front slash open. The shirt can never be worn with this pulled closed as seen on the Vogue pattern, but the shirt is wearable if only for Saturdays about the house.


The blouse modeled by the sewer.  My apologies for the grim face and poor lighting. I can't believe I made that mistake and winter in northern Europe only has so much daylight in any one week.

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

The New Year and A Finished Slim Chemise Dress

Hallelujah! The Slim Chemise Dress, Vogue 7231 from Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing (1952) is finished. This is a first for me in that I started with only a photograph and a general drawing of the pattern pieces. Normally when I copy something, I have either the actual garment to copy or a good photo and a similar pattern from which I alter the pattern to give me the specific details. In this case, I did not have any pattern that was remotely similar.

I find drafting from scratch hard and time consuming. I know I would benefit greatly from a well-developed course on pattern drafting but time, location, and funding have put that off for the a while.

I am reasonably pleased with the results of the dress. It's a bright sunny morning today. I'm hoping photos will happen this afternoon.