Sunday, March 23, 2014

First, the Planning and then some more Planning.

Washing the fabric, softened the cotton and loosened the weave. I need to plan on lining this jumper with this particular fabric. Luckily, the standard pattern directions have the sewer lining the bodice. It will be very simple to add a lining to the skirt section. Next, I create a project page in my sewing diary. I either draw a simple representation of the garment or add a color copy of the envelope front. I date the entry and note which view I'm making as well as the size from which I'm starting my alterations.



I know that there are several alterations that almost always have to be done. I usually need to add about 5/8 of an inch to each side of the shoulder seam. I can't forget to draft this into subsequent sleeve heads or arm hole facings. Luckily, this pattern has neither as I will be fully lining the top with the same pattern piece cut from the lining fabric. Also, I often need to take out some along the center line of the front and back and add something to the bust darts or gathers. I have a C/D-cup sized bust line and most industry standard patterns are drafted with a B-cup in mind.


Above you can see the redrafted muslins for the bodice. The back pattern piece is showing and you can see the additional length on the shoulder as well as the removal of some of the width in the center back. I also added about a 1/2 inch to the bust curve at the empire line to compensate for the the larger bust line. I also make note of these alterations on my project page in my sewing diary.


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