Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing - The Full Gathered Skirt - Vogue 7375 - 1952 - Initial Thoughts and Reservations

So here's one of the projects in VoNBBS which I thought was worthy of copying. It's not the first project, but rather the third. VoNBBS is definitely a book originally conceived to teach the fundamentals of dressmaking. I'm sure that in 1952, this book and its patterns where readily available at the shops, but in 2014 in Belgium....not so much.

I've decided to ignore the "here's how to sew" part of the book and keep the design aesthetics of the 1950's, because I already know a good deal about sewing and I've always been attracted to the tailored quality of clothing from the 1930's through the 1950's.

I've also decided to add  two other elements. The first is born out of my unwillingness to devote time, energy, and money to hunting down the old patterns, but instead I want to draft my own patterns based on the photos of the projects in VoNBBS or photos of the patterns envelopes that are found on line. I certainly could use this new skill. The second element that I wish to practice with this book is far more difficult for me. It is choosing or changing the projects to reflect my lifestyle, my personal taste, and my own body shape. I have to be brutally honest with myself and not just make what I would imagine myself being able to wear, but what I actually can wear. I'd love to make myself a ball gown or a silk afternoon tea dress, but I'd look perfectly silly at the green grocer in either one of these confections.

With these two goals in mind, now is the time for confessions. It is said that your tailor may know more about you than your doctor or your spouse and since I am my own tailor, it's time to be honest. I'm over fifty...rather stout....short waisted.....large busted....average height....and I hate to buy clothes in the shops because of all this, I am driven to sew.

I chose this starting project because I love the large black and white check. The colors fit right into my current wardrobe. I already have several blouses and tops I can where with this skirt. I was able to find the exact fabric to make the skirt. And finally, the pattern pieces are rectangles....yep, three rectangles. How much trouble can that be?

So much for the positive. I have some deep reservations about this project, they fall under body shape and proportion. Just look at that photo, that poor woman hasn't eaten since 1949. That must be a 22 inch waist. I can tell you mine is not that svelte and I'm concerned about the "horizontal-ness" of the entire skirt, starting with the narrow rectangular waistband and its' continued emphasis with the horizontal stripe in the very nature of the plaid. To end positively, I could use a simple cotton skirt in my summer wardrobe. Something with a print would be welcomed and the dirndl shape is a quick and easy sew.

Sew...I forged ahead!

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