Friday, April 14, 2017

A Word About Scissors


In a long ago previous post, I outlined a list for a basic sewing kit which I believe every household needs for simple clothing repair. This kit will also be your foundation for your future sewing equipment. I also kept in mind that some people who try sewing will not care for it and not continue in this hobby. Therefore, I kept the list to an absolute minimum number of items and discussed quality and cost of several items. For example, buying one high quality vinyl double sided measuring tape will last a lifetime if you sew or if you only do occasional mending or fabric projects. This difference in cost is minimal but the life cycle is much higher for the "best quality" item.

For most items, I recommended buying high quality tools to begin your collection, except for scissors. Counter intuitive? Maybe? But good quality sewing shears need to be purchased after you have a small amount of experience. Today, I'll repeat this advice and add to the information to try to help you with your first cutting tool investments. Previously, on the post titled,  "A Very, Very Basic Sewing Kit", I stated the following advice about your first pair of scissors.
 For an absolute beginner, however, I recommend buying a new pair of $10-$15 dollar dressmaking shears from the large sewing store or online. If you are particularly budget minded, a new pair of "orange" handled scissors from the office supply store will be just fine. The point, here, is that they are new! Don't go to the kitchen drawer and re-purpose old scissors. Even the new "orange" scissors will suffice for cutting fabric for your first six or seven projects before becoming too dull. By that time, you will know if sewing is going to be a long term love or a see ya' later frustration. At that time, you can make the investment for new high quality shears and "retire" your old scissors to be your paper scissors in the sewing room. If you are saying goodbye to sewing then your basic sewing kit can remain in its' box as a simple home mending kit. It will be ready and stocked for all your small clothing emergencies.
When you have decided to invest in a pair of dressmaking shears, you should invest in the best possible pair you can afford. Two, you should protect them with your life, and use them only to cut fabric. And finally, three, have them sharpened, when needed, at an independent sewing store that specializes in sewing scissor sharpening. You may have to travel to do this and even leave your shears for sharpening at the store, but with careful use this won't happen too often. I sharpen my shears every 5-10 years, depending on the type of sewing projects I have done. Recently, some special occasion sewing with man-made fabrics have hastened the decline of the my shear's cutting edge. They are okay for now but before the next silk blouse, I need to schedule their maintenance visit to the sharpener.

At first you only need two pairs of scissors, your dressmaking shears and your paper scissors. You should buy bent handle, razor sharp shears in a size that could range from 8" to 10". What exact size you choose will depend on your sewing style and hand size and strength. In general, lighter weight and shorter shears are better for lighter weight fabrics and heavier weight longer shears are better for heavier fabrics. Also your own hand size will help you determine your shear size.  This is why if you see a Saville row cutter's shears they will be absolutely enormous.  The heavier suit fabric and the traditional male hand suited large shears that would be entirely out of proportion for most sewer's needs. View your shear purchase as an investment, buy your shears at a sewing store where the sales person will allow you to handle at least a sample of the shears before you buy them. Test the shears before you buy! But don't cut anything! Hold them in your cutting hand and open and close them several times. How do they feel in your hand? Are they comfortable to hold? Balanced in your hand? Do they open and close smoothly? As you open and close them slowly in the air, they should feel as if you are pushing a fork through the most fluffiest, smoothest, lightest cheesecake you can imagine, any more resistance than that and they will be tiring to use. Any less than that and you need to choose a different pair.

Your second pair of scissors for your sewing room are your paper scissors. They can be the ones your have "retired" from you original first sewing kit or they can be a new pair of scissors from an any office supplier. They also should be dedicated to your sewing room. You do not want to be chasing down scissors from the kitchen or garage every time you sew.

Now you have what you need to get started with sewing, your fabric shears, and your paper scissors. Never mistake one for the other and guard both carefully from other less informed household members.

As you become more experienced with sewing, you may find adding to your cutting tools very useful. I've listed several other sorts of other items that are useful. None are absolutely necessary to start and all make great suggestions for the dreaded question, "What can I get you for your birthday?"

Other useful items
Some 6" sharp point scissors for clipping, slashing and trimming
Small embroidery scissors are for cutting thread, hand sewing, small clips and fine detail cutting.
Thread snips are great for clipping threads at the machine or ironing board.
Pinking shears will help you finish the edges of raveling fabric if you don't have an overlock machine.
Rotary cutters are useful for slippery, silky fabrics and quilting. You must use a cutting mat with this option.
Duck bill applique scissors are for very close trimming of delicate fabrics and appliques. I find them useful for reducing seam bulk in collars and neckline facings as long as the fabric is lightweight.

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