Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Simplicity 2758 - Installing an Invisible Zipper

 Installing an invisible zipper is easier than a regular zipper because all the stitching is hidden from view and any slight wobble can be forgiven. I chose an invisible zipper for the corduroy because I didn't want any top stitching showing that would crush the pile of the fabric.

      First baste the one side of the zipper upside down to the right side of a garment's zipper opening. You want the teeth of the zipper to lie just outside the seam line, so that when you unroll the zipper for stitching the zipper's stitching line is on the seam line.


  I don't have a zipper foot for my machine, I use one designed for pin tucks and it works just fine. I have to adjust the needle position and away I go. Make one smooth stitching line "in the zipper's ditch" from top to bottom. Go as far as you can toward the bottom. The zipper stop will eventually get in your way. Stitch until you cannot go any further without distorting the stitching line. Stop, back stitch and trim threads.
 

Now, align and baste the second side of the zipper. I start off by pinning the second side of the zipper in place.

I check to see I haven't got things twisted by turning the garment to the right side and closing the zip. When that works, all is right with the world and I baste the second side of the zipper and stitch as described above.

When both sides of the zipper have been stitched, I check the alignment by closing the zipper. I'm looking closely at the top edge of the skirt. This should be even and smooth for the waistband. Unevenness at the hemline can be dealt with during the hemming process.
 
 Finally, to finish closing the zipper seam, you pull the end of the zipper tape free from the seam allowances and pin the two stitching lines of the zipper together as close to the bottom as you can. Then pin the remainder of the seam. You will begin stitching at the end of  the zipper and move down, never the reverse. Begin stitching right on the end of the zipper stitch line or only one stitch length away. It can be a bit fuss, but work carefully and slowly for the first inch or so of the seam line. You're done. Trim and press and admire your beautiful invisible zipper.

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