The Sewing You Already Own

Today's post is about the sewing you already have. Yes, the closet full of clothes that has spilled out onto the floor.

"But I didn't sew that!"

True, you didn't, but someone did. Someone else designed and manufactured every item in your closet and then you bought it. You were only involved in the last step, acquisition. By learning to sew, you are consciously choosing to take responsibility for the design and manufacturing of at least some part of your wardrobe. This means that you need to learn something about what you already have.

Many people shop for clothing without a real sense of purpose. They wander through the department stores looking at clothes until they spy something they "just have to have." We've all done it. Combine the "Oohhh look! That's pretty." with "OMG, it's 60% off!" and "They have it in MY size!" and we are all doomed. It can be a lovely way to spend an afternoon, but if we do it all the time we end up with a closet stuffed full of clothing and nothing to wear.

So the first step in learning to sew your own clothes is learning about the clothes you already own. Many wardrobe clean out advice columns begin with emptying the whole closet and making piles around the room of "give aways" and "charities" and "trash". I find this doesn't work very well for two reasons. The first being if all the clothes are piled about what you end up with is a wrinkled mess. Secondly, you also end up with multiple piles of clothing to go out the door to new destinations at the same time. They don't make it out the door that day....they languish in the corner until the weekend and the weekend becomes next month and then half or more of what you have discarded is back in the closet.

Below I have a seven step process for find your true wardrobe. Don't do it all at once. It's should be done in multiple sessions with the goal of each session being the removal of the discarded items from the house that day. Your time and decision making process are most valuable. Plan your discard action before starting to weed your closet. Having cast-off's crawl back into your closet through second guessing yourself is being disrespectful to yourself and your time. You can make the right decision up front. Prepare to back your decision with action.

The first step is to look carefully at the list you made from the previous post, the one about your various roles in life. Have this available to you as you begin to evaluate your closet. Have also an index card with you for any new clothing you may desperately need after you are ruthlessly brutal with yourself. Yes, at the end you may get to go shopping.

STEP ONE: LONG TERM STORAGE
Remove from your closet all items of clothing that would be better off in long term storage. These are usually things that are too sentimental to part with but you'll not be wearing them again. Your closet space is too valuable for things like wedding dresses, bridesmaid dresses, old boyfriend's flannel shirts and your precious signed Grateful Dead tee shirt. Vintage items that are too fragile to wear also fall into this category. Take these items out and store them appropriately elsewhere.

STEP TWO: THE TRASH
Remove the trash from your wardrobe. The stuff that is so torn, stained, and old that you would only wear it when changing the oil in the car, nursing vomiting children and or applying fake tan for the first time in the privacy of your own bathroom. Be ruthless....trash the underwear too!   Put it all into a trash bag and get it to the curb today. What you don't want it is to have this stuff sneak back into the closet. You are better than that and you deserve clothes that are not rejects from a charity shop. Throw it out! There is one caveat here....look at your roles list if you need trash clothing you are allowed to keep some of it. Be very honest with yourself. If you renovate old houses on the weekend, you need two to three complete outfits for painting and plumbing, but not sixteen. If you work in an office, live in an apartment and are able to keep your nails manicured 365 days per year you'll need nothing in this category. Remember keep only what you will wear between being able to wash.

STEP THREE: RECYCLE
Remove from your wardrobe anything that doesn't fit but is still nice enough for someone else to wear. If it is too small, remove it. If is too large, remove it. If you don't like, remove it. If it was a gift that just wasn't right, remove it. If every time you wear the item, it just doesn't seem right, but "oh well, I've got nothing else", remove it. Do this step by yourself. Don't rush this process. Use the mirror and your camera to get a good idea if you really should be wearing an item. If in doubt, throw it out. Now, depending on your local resources, all these items need to be taken to charity or a consignment shop right away. Get them out of the house. There should be no second guessing your hard work a day or two later.

STEP FOUR: WHAT'S LEFT
What's left? It should fit and you should feel good about wearing it. There's one more round of weeding that needs to be done. Fitting your wardrobe to your lifestyle. Take a look at what's left. Have you got 15 little black dresses and you really only need two. Keep only the two you love the most. Do you have 30 pairs of jeans and only need 3 pairs? How many tee shirts can you wear in one week? Eliminate the excess, even if it fits keep only the items you really love and balance the number of items against your specific lifestyle activities. Take these items to the appropriate charity right away also.

STEP FIVE: OFF-SEASON CLOTHING
What's left now? It might be painful is a few spots, but we are not finished yet. I mentally divide my clothing into three groups, the core, summer clothes and winter clothes. My core wardrobe stays in the closet year round. This includes things like blue jeans, white tee shirts, white blouses, ....a navy cardigan sweater. There are real basics that I wear weekly and year round. This is where I spend most of my clothing dollar. My summer and winter clothes are just that, clothes that get stored for half the year, anything from sundresses to ski sweaters. Remove these items from your wardrobe and store your off-season clothing.

STEP SIX: WHAT'S LEFT?
Now you should be left with clothes that fit, you feel good about and what's in season. You may also feel that you do not have enough to wear. More than likely you have just what you need, but there may be a few items that need replenished. Examine your lifestyle list against the clothes that you have remaining in your closet. It's time to make a list for shopping and sewing. You will need to carefully and conservatively make your list. Err on the side of too little. Remember, as you learn to sew, you will add to your wardrobe as easily as shopping for ready made items. At this point, you may need to replace underwear and bras, jeans, basic tee shirts and specific clothes needed for your job. Write up your list on the index card. Do you need the back of the card or multiple cards? Re-examine the shopping list and think about the minimum you need. At this point you should need only one card for your purse. Shop at this time only for these items.

STEP SEVEN: YOUR WARDROBE
You've got it. Just what you need and want in your closet. Take a step back and look. What's there? Can you identify a color palette that you are naturally drawn toward? How about cut and fit? Fabrics? Easy care or dry clean? Write these down in your idea book and compare them to the images you've collected. Reflect on what you have learned and refocus your idea book.

Mirror, Mirror ... on the wall...

Sewing begins and ends with reflection. In a very basic way, you have defined your end by choosing to learn to sew. The next question should be do you want to descend into the home sewing hobby in controlled flight or uncontrolled chaos?

"Uncontrolled chaos sounds fun"....Oh, it can be fun and for some extremely rewarding. You may already be on the path to sewing chaos by being the person who received a sewing machine and not a mirror for Christmas. Congratulations! Have fun! But many experienced sewers will also hear from you in a month or two.

"Help! I've got this project and I can't finish it. Will you help me?" ...and in a crumpled paper bag you will have the remains of your first sewing project. It will be consist of $80, $10 or $400 worth of crushed rayon velvet, Goodwill purchased poly/cotton sheets from the 1970's, or uneven woolen tartan bought by your mother-in-law on her one and only vacation to Scotland. You will need to have the party dress, curtains, or suit finished in two hours, two days or two weeks.  You will have cut the dress front with the velvet nap going up and the back with the nap going down. The curtains are in good shape except for the last panel which is seven inches too short and you are out of sheets. The suit is cut but the plaid is unmatched and you did make it through constructing the skirt but the waist is too tight. Can I alter the skirt to fit?

Believe me, I've seen it all. I'll make you a mug of tea and listen to your tale of woe. I'll let you tell me all about your aspirations and then I'll be harsher that you can ever imagine. I'll tell you in the kindest way possible. "The only place for the contents of that crushed paper bag is the garbage bin."  I cannot help you. I will not help you and our friendship is probably doomed.

Nearly all first time sewers make these mistakes, they fail to match their level of ability to project difficulty and fabric appropriateness. It happens. It happens most frequently to new sewers, but even experienced dressmakers have "wadders." Have two or three disasters in a row and real self doubt sets in. But have something come out as a smashing success, that feeling will be there with you every time you wear the garment.

Are you ready for flight school?  It's assignment time.

Assignment #1:
Have you started your "Idea Journal"? Pull up a chair, a mug of tea and some day dreaming time and take a look at what you've collected. Do you dream of high end fashion? Do you want to push the envelope of conventional clothing definitions?   Do you prefer home decor? Crafty items? Knitwear? Do you dream of silk cocktail dresses or tweed suits? Do you want to recreate vintage items? Do you want clothes that fit better?  What are your interests? Try and identify some trends. Write six to eight sentences about what you dream about doing.

My sentences would be.
     
I want to sew clothes that fit me.
I want to have really nice clothing, that lasts for years.
I like classic lines, and traditional fabrics.
I am drawn to vintage clothing especially items from the 1930's to the mid 1950's.
I want to include vintage ideas into my wardrobe without becoming costume or campy.
I want to save a ton of money on home decor because I have designer tastes and a thrift store budget.
I want to be able to sew some of my clothes but also be able to buy quality RTW at all price points.

Assignment #2:
Take an honest look at your lifestyle. What kind of activities, jobs, or roles to you have in your life? Define each one. You may be a parent or care giver. You may have a job that has specific dress codes. Your hobbies might have clothing requirements. A parent of two year old twins might wish for clothes impermeable to grape jelly and craft paint. An office worker dresses one way and police officer another. A gardener wears one thing and museum docent another.

Make a list of as many of your roles as you can. Try and quantify how large a part of your time you spend in each roles. It is from this list that you will begin to guide your sewing and wardrobe. From each of these activities or clothing needs you can direct you project choices.

Here's the beginning and end of my list. I want you to write your own.
My largest role is housekeeper. I need clothing that is tough and comfortable and classic and washable.

My smallest role is bar hopping party girl. I need only one versatile outfit for this one that is worn once per year or less.

From this list, the vast majority of my clothes consists of sportswear separates and no sequins.

You should use these two lists along with your own geography and climate to help you choose your wardrobe pieces and sewing projects. I should be making easy wear tops to go with jeans, shirt dresses, and active wear and outerwear for all kinds of variable weather. I should not be making party dresses, office wear, Hawaiian shirts or Edwardian reproductions no matter how much I like the patterns and fabric. Even if you decide sewing is not for you, knowing how much of what kind of clothing belongs in your wardrobe is cost saving. (I don't always follow this advice 100% of the time, but 9 times out of 10 it works.)

Soooo....You want to learn how to sew.....

Warning: I am very opinionated about the topic of learning how to sew and I can be quite abrasive with my remarks. If this sort of thing offends you, please understand I want to save you from catching the disease of sewing. It's not a deadly disease, but it can not be cured. Sewing can lead to lifelong consequences, such as investments in expensive machines, cutting and tossing gorgeous fabric, hoarding supplies, needing an extra room in your home and having a ghastly aversion to RTW fashion. But gosh darn it, sewing can be so much fun!


I've decided to write a series of posts about learning to sew, because I got one of the Christmas questions nearly every experienced sewer dreads to hear. 

"I want to learn how to sew my own clothes and my husband/partner/mom/generous patron is going to buy me a sewing machine for Christmas. Can you suggest which machine they should buy?" 

This!...Two weeks before Christmas!

My universal answer is... "Put the credit card down and slowly back away from the machine. You will either over or under spend and the recipient will never get the  machine they need or want."



My gift suggestions for this situation are as follows:

1. Choose something very nice from the jewelers.
2. Pay for some lessons from a locally owned sewing store where basic machines are provided.
3. If you completely insist on starting your collection of sewing tools, begin by purchasing a full length mirror.

A FULL LENGTH MIRROR!  You've got to be crazy to suggest that for a gift at the holidays. After eating all that Christmas turkey and drinking all that booze, no one will appreciate a mirror. It's like giving a vacuum cleaner to your spouse as an anniversary gift.

Yes, a full length mirror is your very first investment in learning to sew. Buy the best one you can afford and mount it somewhere that you have enough space to "model" for yourself and where there is good lighting. The back of the door in a poorly lit cramped bathroom is not a good place, neither is the corner of a damp and dingy basement or attic where you someday envision  a "professional" sewing studio. It won't happen, at least not yet. Hang that mirror somewhere near where you dress every morning and begin to use it. Oh, and by the way... Are you thinking of using a large bathroom vanity mirror or mantle mirror in the living room as a substitute?  No! Just don't even think about it. Buy a proper full length mirror. Trust me on this one. Even if you decide that sewing is not for you, your mirror will still be a good investment.

 If you can not bring yourself to make the investment in a proper mirror, then sewing clothes for yourself may not be your thing. Don't worry, it's not a deal breaker at this point, there is quilting, home decor and crafting all of which use sewing skills. There is also knitting, crocheting and all sorts of other handcrafts that can satisfy one's need for creativity.  But please take note, this should be a warning sign. Persevere through the next couple of lessons before making your final decision. I will be clearly giving you exit points during these beginning lessons and there is no shame in waving goodbye. The shame comes from buying and then storing an unused sewing machine in the attic, not from saying, "Thanks, but no thanks."

Okay...got it? Now have a great time with Christmas and don't worry about sewing until the New Year. I'll post the first sewing lessons during the holidays and the assignments can be done in January.

In the meantime, to satisfy your sewing bug, here are some inexpensive suggestions

1.) Go to the local library and check out some sewing books. Read them for fun. Don't worry about not understanding everything or getting lost with the directions. Look at the pictures and take note of what really interests you.

2.) Use the Internet to read other sewing blogs.

3.) Look at a site like Amazon and use the "See Inside" feature to look at currently popular sewing books. BUY NOTHING! Don't even put them on a "Wish List."

4.) Visit your local book shop to look at sewing books. Are you tempted to buy? DON'T! Reward yourself with a double latte at the coffee shop and return home to reflect on what appeals to you.

5.)  If you are very lucky to have these resources, visit your local sewing store or stores. Browse. Get a feel for their inventory and their level of service. Leave the credit card at home!

6.) Visit your local "Big Box" hobby/sewing center. Browse. Get a feel for their inventory and their level of service.  Leave the credit card at home and don't sign up for their mailing list, at least not yet.

If you insist on completing an assignment, start a "sewing idea journal". Use a found notebook, a old loose leaf binder, a paper folder or a virtual bulletin board. It is not necessary to buy anything to start this assignment. Start collecting images of things that appeal to you as a sewer. Don't limit yourself to just things other people have sewn. Include fashion photos, home decor and soft furnishings photos, quilts and crafts....anything and everything that appeals to you. Only by creating a collection will you begin to see trends for yourself. This will become that basis for making some decisions about what kind of sewing you'd really like to learn after you've mastered the basics.

Cost of this lesson: Your full length mirror, if it's not a gift, and the optional coffee latte at the bookstore. All other gift suggestions are at the reader's discretion.

Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear.....

I've fallen into a giant sewing hole and I'm battling my way out. Let's just say that drafting this pattern has become a nightmare. I should have made at least 2 more muslins, but nooooooo....I thought....3 is enough....I can do this.  HA! The karma in my sewing room has risen up from the threads on the floor and linted up my brain and taken more than a few pegs out of my sewing hubris.

"Needles" to say there have been tears and frustrations. I am battling on and I promise there will be a garment out of this yet. In the meantime, I'm keeping my eyes firmly on the pattern drawing and out of the overflowing waste basket in the corner of the sewing room.

Vogue 7321 - 1952 The Slim Chemise Dress

 I closed my eyes and jumped of the high diving board into pattern drafting with this project and I definitely feel like I'm drowning. Clearly, this is a detailed oriented skill that needs to be developed over time under the tutelage of an experienced drafter. After a lot of time, many stops and starts, and several rolls of paper, I got a bodice front and back.

 From there, it was another roll or two of paper and I think I have a first guess at my recreation of Vogue's 7321 Slim Chemise Dress from Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing.








Sooooo....I cut my first muslin. Not bad....but some issues exist. The collar is too high and the sleeves are not long enough to accommodate the cuffs turning back and finally the bust dart is not quite right.
Back to the drawing board!

A Revisit to the Plaid Circle Skirt

After wearing this skirt a couple of times, I realized the plain simple narrow waistline was just too large...but what to do about a "precut" circle? You just can't magically add fabric to make the waistline narrower. Gathering the excess isn't the answer either.

Here's my solution: It's a wide, fitted waist with a button detail.

Vogue 7630-1952 - The Portrait Neckline Blouse - Finished

Pattern trial number two gave me this. Four pieces, that except for the full bust, looked pretty similar to the illustrations in VoNBBS. I specifically choose to create "net patterns", that is, patterns without seam allowances. I found this gives me an easier time doing a couple of things, fitting on my dress form and "walking" the seams. 

Then, I got busy with the project and didn't pick up my camera until nearly the end....hemming the sleeve.

Here's the finished blouse with the slim skirt and my farmer's tan.

Here it is again worn as an over-blouse with the gingham skirt. The black color and poor lighting of late autumn in northern Europe sucks all the detail out of the photo.

Garment Finish: Good to excellent overall. This is a linen blouse, so I chose to over lock the seam edges to prevent raveling. The zipper is a lapped application in the side seam.  A-

Fit: Actually, I'm surprised. My first attempt at pattern drafting isn't bad. The fit is good, maybe a little large, but I've certainly had far worse at the hands of other pattern makers. For a first project: A-

Choice of Materials: It's linen. It wrinkles! It's clearly a summer blouse. I would choose cotton next time for ease of washing, or silk for something dressy. B+

Style and Wearability: This 1952 style still works today. I could make this out of a number of different fabric or colors. As you can see I have paired it with the more formal slim skirt and the casual gingham skirt and I've got two distinct looks. I could wear this with jeans and a blazer also.  A+

Overall: A-
Not bad for jumping in at the deep end of pattern drafting.

Vogue 7630 - 1952 The Portrait Neckline Blouse

   
     According to VoNBBS, the portrait-neckline blouse is "easy-to-make" and "has a way of making you look your prettiest and most feminine." Well, bottle that up and sell it! I'm buying. It's a blouse, a simple one at that. There are no sleeves, cuffs, collars or buttons. What's not to like?

     Plenty, when you don't have a commercial pattern at you finger tips. This week, I cracked open the dreaded "Pattern-Making for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph Armstrong. I felt as if I'd gone back to school...the tables, the diagrams....the exercises...the revelations!

     The second chapter is an exhaustive discussion of fashion industry standards, how they are categorized and why they may or may not be used. Next came a five or six page set of exhaustive diagrams on how to take all 38 plus measurements from a standard fashion industry dress form. Many of these, such as bust, waist and center front length are very familiar, but others such as abdominal arc, bust span and strap length were completely new to me.

       As I don't have a industry standard dress form hanging around the work room, I took my own measurements and filled out a two page form from the book's appendix.  I had it on paper, me in Oct 2014, every roll, ripple and bulge. Then, I turned the page and found a table entitled "Standard Measurement Chart". Across the top of the table ran the headings grade and size, from size 6 to 18 and down the size ran a list of all the measurements I had just painstakingly recorded for myself. For kicks, or a malicious sense of self-inflicted pain, I circled my real measurements as they appeared on the table.

      The results were both humiliating and revealing at the same time. All my "vertical" measurements fell into the 6-8 size and all my horizontal measurements fell into the 16-18 size. This explains so many of my fitting problems with commercial patterns and why I cannot find retail clothing that fits. It also scares the heck out of me for pattern drafting.

     I won't bore you with all the gritty details of Chapter 3 - Drafting the Basic Pattern Set, but I will say that my 6-8 by 16-18 figure created drafted drawings that in no way looked like the illustrations in the textbook. The result was a lot of self-doubt, many repeated exercises and several rolls of pattern paper and a couple yards of muslin on the work room floor. In the end, I did get a skirt and bodice basic block pattern completed and fitted. I have not attempted a sleeve block. That will come later, perhaps in the spring.

     Using the block as a guide and skipping through dart and neckline manipulations, using only those exercises that applied to Vogue 7630 - 1952, I came up with this trial pattern.

 ...and this first muslin.

Hmmm...trial two....coming up.

Simplicity 1590 - Forties Blouse

Well, it's finished. I'm not sure I like it. I think the choice of fabric is all wrong.

The cotton is just too transparent. I'm also wearing it in October; this is summer blouse that needs a light colored cotton skirt underneath it.

The garment finish is good. I didn't spend a great deal of time on special seam finishes with this garment. The quality of the fabric just didn't warrant the effort. This project is much more about style and pattern testing than french seams and organza interlining. Garment Finish: B-

Fit: The fit is good. The back and waist are smooth and there is no gaping in the front. The full bust adjustment is a success. Fit: A

Choice of Materials: C- It's not a complete failure, but nearly so. The cotton is shear but very inexpensive. It won't wear well in the end and therefore didn't require the extra time and expense of lining the blouse. Given that, I still wouldn't want to spend a great deal time or money for a first trial of a new pattern. I think this garment would look better in a silk, charmeuse, or nice dress weight cotton. I will be worth trying it again before deciding if the pattern is a keeper.

Style and Wearability: B  The blouse is very much a success in someways and a dismal failure in others. As this project is a precursor to the completely self-drafted copy of the VoNBBS's portrait neckline blouse, it is weighted more for a success. The neckline is attractive and flattering. The cap sleeves give just that little bit of cover for the shoulders. Both these features are important for VoNBBS's Vogue 7630.  I don't care for the peplum. It emphasizes a part of my body I wish to ignore and I cannot tuck this blouse into a skirt or pant. This limits it's wearablity.

Project Overall: B-

Now, I'm looking forward to my first redraft of an old pattern from VoNBBS, Vogue 7630, the portrait neckline blouse. I think I can do this! Think positively! I can do this.....yes, maybe, welll...let's see.

"Patternmaking for Fashion Design"  by Helen Joseph Armstrong here I come.

Simplicity 1590 - Construction

 I always, always, always baste and check dart placement, especially after a full-bust adjustment. Sometimes the project is a wadder right then and there. It saves disappointment in the end with an ill-fitting finished garment. As I cannot fit the garment and photo the garment at the same time on me, you get a photo of  "Judy" wearing the blouse. Judy is just about my size, but I find I get a better fit if I slip the garment on for final okay. So...the dart is in the correct position and stops before the bust point and I've got no front blouse gapping.. I can proceed.

Here's the front before buttons and button holes. I'm not thrilled with the transparency of the fabric. I guess this one will fall under the category of "must wear a camisole."

... Because I'm procrastinating self-evaluation.

 A vintage portrait neckline blouse is up next. It's not Vogue. It's not VoNBBS. It's not the early 1950's....but has the correct neckline and the correct sleeves. The waistline darts can be converted later into pleats. The biggest style differences between the VoNBBS (Vogue 7630 -1952) and Simplicity 1590 is the addition of the peplum and the front button closure. Neither of these are deal breakers for this project.

I'm going to make View A and redraft the front for a FBA to a D-cup. I have a piece of lightweight summer cotton with a circular chenille design for the project and some simple plain white buttons.

Below is a photo just before cutting. The pieces redrafted are the front bodice for a FBA and the front facing has some length added to it because of the FBA. Otherwise, I'm going about this "as directed" by the pattern instructions.

The Next VoNBBS Project - The Chemise Dress or the Portrait Neckline Blouse?

I've been thinking seriously about the next VoNBBS project. I've completed the two projects that are based on rectangular pattern pieces and now I must jump off the cliff into pattern making or rather pattern reproducing and adjusting because...well, look at our lovely Miss Vogue 7231, she hasn't eaten since 1951.

The two easiest patterns for beginning pattern drafting will be the Chemise Dress and the Portrait Neckline Blouse.

I'm very tempted to start here with Vogue 7231 because is looks so modern. We are still wearing this shape today. Here's a modern pattern for essentially the same look. Although, please Vogue be careful of your fabric choice and construction before using the sample as the pattern photo.

However, after looking at the general shape of the pattern pieces from the original pattern, I'm doubting myself.

For heavens sake, look at them. There's not much there. There is nothing to hang a T-square or triangle on. There are few discernible points to begin with ...center back and front and a slight indication of a front bust dart, but other than that the pattern lacks definition. I think this could be very easy to get very wrong very quickly, especially since the fabric in my stash is a plaid. I want to show off the bias cuffs but the rest of the dress had better match. Being off grain will not be acceptable on this project. I think a solid fabric might hide these fundamental  pattern errors and I wish to avoid them at all cost.

Vogue 7630 is the other choice, a little blouse. Its pattern shapes are far more recognizable when compared to my pattern drafting textbook. The neckline could be very tough to get right...until I remembered this post. See it there right in the middle, I have it! It's in my pattern stash ....a portrait neckline blouse... a retro portrait neckline blouse! This will be the way to go.

....Actually, anything to delay cracking open that textbook and evaluating myself next to fashion industry standards.

Vogue 7436 - 1952 Final Evaluation

The Slim Skirt from VoNBSS is finished. It's a straight skirt. This silhouette has become a wardrobe staple over the years. There are hundreds of pattern choices for the home sewer. There are shorter ones and tighter ones. There are patterns that are pegged at the bottom rather than straight. Pick one that suits you and sew!

For this project, I got a small taste of draping instead of pattern cutting and I found this rather freeing from the "rules and regulations"of the pattern direction sheet. I also found that I had to keep my wits about me and not finish some parts of the garment before others. There must be an order to the process.

The garment finish is rather good on this garment. I'm pleased. It is fully lined. The zipper in hand picked and the hem is well padded and invisible from the outside of the garment. All seams are finished. I'm not pleased with the waistband interfacing. Let's just say I don't have many choices here and it shows. Overall: A-

The waistband of this skirt is a little tight. I learned something about the interaction of ease and turn of the cloth with this project. Also, don't sew while the plumber is in the house! You will not try things on as needed and adjust when needed. The moral of the story is clean when there are people working on the house and sew when everyone is gone. Fit: B

Choice of Materials: A+    Actually, this couldn't have been better. The houndstooth is a classic weave. The black and white is timeless. The wool was forgiving and easy to work with. I couldn't be happier with the materials.

Style and Wearabilitiy: A-  The tight waistband limits the wearability a bit...but three pounds and that will go away. The style is as wearable today as it was in 1952. This should be wardrobe corner post for many years to come.

Overall: A-

Vogue 7436 - 1952 The Slim Skirt - Top and Bottom

 I can't bore you with endless construction details for this project. The reason is simple. I got involved in this project and didn't surface to breathe until I was nearly finished. I just didn't think about photos until it's too late. Here are a couple photos of the nearly finished skirt.

 Draping was the way to go for me on this project. I was able to adjust pleat and dart arrangements for my specific problems without feeling I was violating some unwritten rule about following a pattern religiously. I blame my 8th grade home economics teacher for this. I still don't mix my blueberry muffins without hearing that woman's withering comments. But that's another post on another blog, maybe with my analyst.

Above is the top of the skirt and the center back seam. I left it extra wide for "extra pounds, " later...let's hope not. The wool is finished with black bias tape and the zipper is set by hand with a prick stitch. The entire skirt is lined.

 Below is the bottom of the skirt or hem. I've interfaced the hemline with some muslin to pad out the the turn of the hem so I don't get a sharp crease. There is bias tape applied to the wool and the hem will be stitched in place by hand with a catch stitch. The lining is hemmed separately with a deep double fold hem for extra weight to prevent riding and bunching.

Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing - Vogue 7436 - A Slim Skirt

After completing the first VoNBBS project,  the Full Gathered Skirt, without much trouble in the pattern drafting department.  What I really mean is that I knew I couldn't get into much trouble with three rectangles. It's time to choose a project that isn't a complete rectangle...well almost. It's a rectangle with a kick pleat on the back seam.

The pencil skirt is a fashion icon that is still in our wardrobes today. I have several of them and I wear them constantly. Who's not to like another? ...especially one in houndstooth plaid, just like the photo...okay, okay... the photo plus 40 pounds.  I gathered up my materials and started to ponder the benefits of cutting another rectangular pattern. Then after overdosing on multiple old "Project Runway" YouTube clips, I ran away with myself and draped the silly thing.

Honestly, who needs patterns? We can imagine for one afternoon that we are something we are not; skilled at this. Here's the first look at the draped skirt.

A Circle Skirt in Plaid.

Can I do a circle skirt in plaid? It certainly has been done before judging by the number of images in Pinterest. Here's my choice for the fall. It's a cotton gaberdine with an uneven plaid in many fall leafy colors. I think I should be able to wear just about any color with this skirt.

I spent a lot....I mean a lot of time hand basting the plaid at the seam line. The narrow lines needed to match and there was not any room for error.

The photo is of the basted zipper, but you can see the plaid match at this seam clearly at this point. I'm very happy with the result so far.

The finished skirt with a vintage chunky knit sweater. Thanks Mom! Popcorn ball sweaters are right on trend again!

The Sandra Lee Circle Skirt - An Elizabeth Reid Design

 The solution for my fitting problems turned out to be very easy. A circle skirt eliminates all gathering at the waist and give plenty of fullness at the hem. I did change the usual circle skirt draft is a very slight way. Can you see it?

Here's the finished skirt with the usual wardrobe pieces a tee shirt and cardigan. This skirt worked very well this summer. I wore it twice as often as the VoNBBS's full skirt.

Back to 1952 - Vogue 7375

Remember this skirt. It's from VoNBBS and my interpretation of pattern Vogue 7375, the full skirt. When I made this I had some serious reservations about the dirndl skirt silhoutte and my figure type. Although, the skirt was a successful sewing project, I personally believe that this style has limited appeal for me because of the amount of fullness in the gathers at the waist. It's successful only because of the lightweight gingham fabric. I really like full skirts but I wanted to be able to use a larger variety of fabrics, for example a poplin or mid-weight cotton.

So I put my thinking cap on and came up with one of my first "drafted from my head and personal sketch" garment. I want a full hemline and a plentiful skirt length. I needed to eliminate fullness at the waist and lengthen my torso length. Finally, the garment had to be easy enough so that a sewer, who like me relied for years on commercial patterns, would be confident enough to give it the old college try.

The answer was easier than I anticipated and here's preview of the some of the features of the finished garment.

Simple over-locked seam finishes on the crisp 100% cotton fabric.

A side seam zipper that goes all the way through the waistband thus eliminating the bulky lap and button.

 A narrow twin-needle machine stitched hem.

Fabric self faced waistband 

Next time...the finished garment!

Vogue 2758 - The Finish

 The sleeves, cuffs and closures went  smoothly for this project and here's the finished blouse on my dress form along with the previous project, the corduroy skirt.

Time for some self evaluation on these two items.

Garment Finish: The corduroy was definitely easier to work with than the blouse fabric and it gave a nicer finished garment. Grade: Skirt: A  and Blouse: B+

Fit: Skirt waist is a little tight. This is surprising as the denim skirt was just fine and I cut the same size. (No! The scales haven't changed in the upwards direction.) I think the denim just had more give and I must have stretched the waist seam when sewing it. The blouse fits very well, especially through the bust. I'm very pleased with the drafting of this pattern. Grade: Skirt: B and Blouse: A

Choice of Materials: I find the corduroy, even though it's fine wale, is a casual fabric. I don't think it goes particularly well with the more dressier blouse fabric. Perhaps, the mistake made is that the blouse needs and nice wool tweed or wool flannel pencil skirt and the corduroy needs a Shetland wool knit sweater or casual patterned tee-shirt. The choice of materials is fine if you consider each piece individually, but not correct if they are to be worn as an outfit.  Grade: Skirt: B and Blouse: B-

Style and Wearability:  I addressed this a bit in the previous paragraph. I like both these pieces, just not together. I need to think about how each of these will fit into my fall/winter wardrobe. This will need to wait until I put the summer things away. I think the skirt will blend in just fine, but the blouse may need some help. It will need at least a neutral pencil skirt to go with it specifically. Perhaps, I will get lucky and have forgotten something that I already own that will be perfectly suited for it. In the meantime, I'll put a note on my future project list. I graded the skirt above the blouse because I more than likely have some else to wear with the skirt, the blouse on the other hand may need another sewing project to get the most wear out of it. Grade: Skirt: B and Blouse: C

Vogue 2758 - Collar

Finally, the collar and front band stitching is finished. I'm a little disappointed the collar points are not as crisp as on a shirt, but this fabric has enough stretch in it that I was afraid of pointing them completely out of shape. I guess I'd rather fail on the side of too little than too much.

Simplicity 2758 - Darts and Front Bands

 What a pleasure it is to simply cut an appropriately drafted blouse. Kudos to the pattern companies that are drafting C and D cup patterns. Here's the blouse bodice front and back assembled and ready for the details. I can tell already that this will fit nicely. The fabric is quite soft and not holding a nice crease, so "crispness" is going to be hard to come by in this project.

 Front bands are the bane of my existence. Once these go wrong, collar stands go wrong, collars go wrong... I should just stop here at this step. So jumping off into the details of shirt making and having David Coffin's book on "Shirtmaking" at my elbow, I proceed carefully and baste, baste, baste. Taking my time with marking tends to help tremendously.

Yippee! Nicely done front bands. There is hope for the remainder of this project.

Simplicity 2758 - A Print Blouse

 Here's the print fabric I chose for this project. I bought is several years ago at G-street Fabrics and I've forgotten all the details about it. I believe it's a cotton silk blend with a bit of Lycra in it. It is soft and has a nice drape. It is medium weight blouse fabric, but not crisp like a shirting. It should be all right for this project in that the pattern has many shirt-like details such as the collar stand and separate front bands, but it also has some full sleeves that need some softness to them.

I cut a size 14 D-cup in this pattern. It's one of those from the Big 4 that has drafts for C and D cup ladies. Thank you! It's nice not to have to make full-bust adjustments all the time.

Simplicity 2758 - Finishing up the Corduroy Skirt

 

After inserting the zipper, it's time to baste and stitch the waistband in place.

Here's a close up of the hand work needed to stitch down the waistband to the inside of the skirt. 

Finally, there is some more hand work for the hem.

Here's the finished skirt. I'll have a photo of it after I sew up the blouse in this pattern.